How To Create A Montage With Adobe Photoshop

Creating a montage with Photoshop has always been one of my favorite creative outlets. It gives me an opportunity to set my mind free and see my photography from a totally different perspective. It also enables me to use photos that are flawed, or that I might not be able to use otherwise, for whatever reason.

Here’s a step by step walkthrough of how I created a montage I call “Hidden Falls” using Adobe Photoshop.

Dusk sky at Valley of Fire, Nevada.

Dusk sky at Valley of Fire, Nevada.

I started with a single photograph of the sky at dusk in the Valley of Fire in Nevada, with the outline of the rocks in silhouette. I always loved this photo, but never had the opportunity to use it.

I created a new image sized at 4800 by 6000 pixels. It’s a good idea to give yourself a fair amount of room to work when you haven’t totally visualized your creation yet.

Bonus tip: it’s probably best to work in low resolution until you solidify your ideas and know which images you’re going to use, then create the final montage in high resolution. Working in high resolution can be slow and frustrating when you’re trying to be creative.

Another bonus tip: whenever possible, make your changes non-destructively, using adjustment layers or smart objects, and label your layers, so you remember what you did. This gives you a path of retreat when you don’t like the way things are going, and enables you to make changes to any adjustments you make.

Sky photo placed in new image with black background.

Sky photo placed in new image with a black background.

Conveniently, the rocks were silhouetted in the sky photo, giving me a blank canvas to work with, so I filled the background layer in my new image with black, then copied the photo into the image as a new layer, resizing it with Free Transform until it fit at the top. Now I had a large silhouette of a mountain scene with a nice dusk sky.

Yosemite Fall as seen from the walking trail.

Yosemite Fall as seen from the walking trail.

I found a photo of Yosemite Fall I’d taken from the walking trail, and brought it into the montage, moving it around until I found the right spot for it.

Image of the Yosemite Fall added as a new layer.

Image of the Yosemite Fall added as a new layer.

Screen blend mode eliminated the parts that werent black, and a brush on a Layer Mask cleaned up the remaining artifacts.

Screen blend mode eliminated the parts that weren't black, and a brush on a Layer Mask cleaned up the remaining artifacts.

The next step was to change the blend mode of that layer to Screen, removing all the black pixels against the sky. Then I added a layer mask and used a soft edged brush to paint away the artifacts that the Screen blend mode didn’t eliminate.

The concept was starting to take shape—a waterfall hidden away between a larger set of rocks. What I needed was some rock textures that I could blend in.

Detail photo of the face of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park.

Detail photo of the face of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park.

Photo of El Capitan added as a new layer.

Photo of El Capitan added as a new layer.

I knew just the perfect image for that—a detail photo of El Capitan I’d taken on that same trip to Yosemite. I brought that photo into the canvas and positioned it to the left of the falls, then resized it to fit using Free Transform. Then I changed the blend mode of that layer to Linear Light, giving it a rich, warm color.

I didn’t want to steal too much thunder from the falls themselves, so I decided to tone down the rock texture a bit by lowering the opacity of that layer to about 80%.

Then I added a layer mask and painted away the parts of the rock that didn’t belong in the sky and the bottom of the canvas, and varied the opacity of the brush to create some dramatic shadows along the edges of the rock textures.

Rock piece taken from an enlarged copy of the same original falls photo.

Rock piece taken from an enlarged copy of the original falls photo.

Rock piece image flipped.

Rock piece image flipped horizontally.

Now I needed more rocks on the right side of the falls. I tried using that same image of El Capitan again, but the textures didn’t blend with the rocks on the bottom of original falls image. I couldn’t find a photo in my collection that had better textures, so I decided to use the same image of the falls again. I enlarged it and cropped out a piece of the rocks.

There was some greenery that didn’t quite fit at the bottom of that piece, so I flipped it horizontally and positioned it where I could blend it in more easily. I brought the flipped piece into the scene and positioned it where I wanted it, to the right of the falls, then adjusted the color tones to match the rest of the canvas. Then I lowered the opacity to about 70% to blend it in further, added a layer mask and painted away the parts I didn’t need.

Time to play with the colors. I thought the sky was a little too bright, and didn’t really match the mood of the scene.

Almost done. Whats missing?

Almost done. What's missing?

I decided to try adding a Gradient Fill, creating an effect similar to using an ND grad filter in real life for the sky. I then added a Photo Filter adjustment layer to deepen the colors and give the sky a more surreal look.

I added a few more Photo Filter adjustment layers to change the colors in the rocks so that they would blend with the rest of the scene a little better. I decided to go for a warmer glow in the larger rock faces and a cooler tone in the rocks immediately next to the bluish part of the falls.

At this point, I was going to crop off the bottom part of the canvas and call it done, but the montage didn’t feel complete to me.

After some thought, I decided what the scene needed was a foreground element of some kind. I thought about adding in a grassy patch or perhaps the sandy part of a beach, but then it occurred to me—not sandy, watery. I needed a reflection.

Piece of the bottom cropped and flipped upside down.

Piece of the bottom cropped and flipped upside down.

I cropped a piece out of the bottom of the falls and flipped it upside down, then nudged it into place on the bottom part of the canvas.

I went into Free Transform and widened the bottom part of the cropped piece slightly, to give it the correct perspective (as if I were viewing the scene while standing in that location).

I lowered the opacity of that layer to about 75% (the water would be 1 or 2 stops lower exposure-wise in real life), then added a little Motion Blur and a Ripple effect to that piece, giving it a more realistic watery look.

Montage created in Photoshop with two photos from Yosemite and one from the Valley of FIre.

I hope this has inspired you to try creating montages of your own, if you haven’t already. If you have any montages you’d like to share, post the links here. I’d love to see them.

How To Get One Good Shot Out Of Two Bad Ones With Photoshop CS4

You’ve probably been there. You’re shooting an event, running around all over, trying to capture anyone and everyone, taking advantage of any impromptu group poses when you happen upon them, not really sure what you have or don’t have. Everything happens in a whirlwind, and you’re observing it all through this tiny portal on the back of your camera, and whatever shows up in your peripheral vision.

You finally get a little time to import your shots off the card, sit back and go through them, and then you see it… two great shots of two old friends who haven’t seen each other in a long time.

There’s just one problem—neither of the two shots works. One of the two people looks great in one shot, and the other looks great in the other.

Nowhere else in your pile is there a shot of these two particular subjects together, so now you’re stuck having to either deliver these as they are or trashing them.

But wait! Don’t give up yet! You can combine them into one great shot simply and quickly using Adobe Photoshop CS4 to create what’s known as a composite.

Here’s how:

Open both photos as layers in Photoshop, or combine them as layers after opening them. If you need to fix color and tonality in Lightroom or Camera RAW, do that first. (Tip: In Lightroom, you can select both, right-click and choose “Edit In > Open as Layers in Photoshop…“.)

The next step is to make sure the two photos are aligned, so that all the static elements (trees, walls, etc.) line up exactly. Start by selecting both layers.

From the Edit menu “Auto-Align Layers…”.

When the Auto-Align Layers dialog box comes up, simply choose the default, which should be “Auto”, and click “OK”.

When it’s done, go to the top layer and add a layer mask. Remember—black conceals, white reveals. You want a white one, which “reveals” all of the top layer.

Set your foreground color to black and grab the Brush Tool with a soft edge, and the Opacity and Flow both set to 100%.

Start painting over the subject with the bad pose to reveal the good one in the layer underneath.

As you get into critical areas, zoom in and decrease the size of the brush for better accuracy. Take your time.

To make sure you haven’t missed anything, take a look at the mask. All the areas you want to hide should be black. If you have any white spots, check where they are in the image and paint over them if they should be hidden.

Last step is to crop and save. There you have it.

Tip: For this to work more effectively and save you time, don’t stop down the aperture too much when you’re shooting. In fact, keep it as wide open as you can unless you have a reason not to.

By keep the depth of field fairly shallow, more of the background is blurred, and you don’t have to do as much painting on the mask to blend elements together.

So, parting thought… is this cheating? I guess it’s a matter of opinion. You did have two shots with great poses of each person, just not together. In the scheme of things, that’s pretty tame in the cheating department.

One Big Reason To Upgrade To Photoshop CS4

Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas), an endangered species, being cleaned by Yellow Tangs (Zebrasoma flavescens) and Gold-ring Surgeonfish (Ctenochaetus strigosus) at Turtle Towers dive site, Kona, Hawai'i.This symbiotic behavior keeps the turtles free of algae and parasites while providing a food source for the fish.

With every new release of Adobe Photoshop, there’s a period where people sit on the fence pondering whether or not they should upgrade.

“Is it worth the money?” “Are the new features really that good?” Sound familiar?

The past few releases have brought revolutionary features that have changed the landscape of how people do digital photography and imaging. In CS2, we saw the File Browser become Bridge, the emergence of Vanishing Point, Image Warping, Smart Objects and Lens Correction.

CS3 brought us non-destructive Smart Filters, the Quick Selection tool and Refine Edge, Photomerge with Auto-Align and Auto-Blend Layers, and a non-destructive Brightness/Contrast adjustment, making it possible to take that tool off the “do-not-use” list.

CS4 is a little different. It has its share of features, but its main strength lies in its ability to save you time and increase the productivity of your workflow.

The first thing I noticed about Photoshop CS4 was that the interface has been streamlined so that it takes fewer clicks to get things done, and your cursor doesn’t have to travel as far between points.

In addition, Adobe now has a new open source Configurator utility that makes it easier to customize the panels to suit the individual user.

The next thing I noticed was I wasn’t hearing the CPU fan in my computer kick in as much. That’s because this release actually uses my graphics card to render the images, freeing up my CPU to do the work it was designed to do.

This use of OpenGL and the GPU is probably the biggest improvement to come with the new release.

Previous versions often drove computer upgrades to deal with the load generated by the newer features, but this one uses something that many computers already have.

Another new feature is the Adjustments Panel, where the most commonly used adjustments now live, along with some convenient presets.

In previous versions, when you clicked on the Adjustment Layers icon or navigated to Image > Adjustments, it would bring up a dialog right in front of your image that you had to move out of the way, then while you were making your adjustments, Photoshop would be completely locked up and you couldn’t do anything else with the product until you were done.

The new Adjustments Panel puts them in one place and automatically creates Adjustment Layers with masks, so your edits are non-destructive and you can go back and change them whenever you need to. Best of all, the product remains available while you’re making adjustments, so you can pan, zoom or do anything else you need to.

Some of the adjustments now have on-image controls, such as Curves and Hue/Saturation, so instead of trying to figure out where a particular shade falls on a curve or whether a color is a shade of yellow or green, you can click and drag your cursor over it and watch it change.

Where this new release of Photoshop excels is in saving the user time, and that is a big reason to upgrade. A few seconds here, a few minutes there, fewer clicks to do this or that, quicker rendering of an image after a major adjustment, less burden on the CPU… it’s all about streamlining, and it all adds up.

Whether you’re an amateur trying to get last week’s vacation shots posted to Flickr, or a professional under deadline to deliver a shoot, those extra seconds matter a great deal.

Getting The Focus You Want Using Photoshop CS4

Yellow HibiscusWhen I’m shooting florals, my weapon of choice is my old Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D macro lens (now superceded by the 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR).
Whenever possible, I like to shoot them wide open to accentuate the flower by creating as much bokeh as possible, blurring the background to minimize distractions in the frame.

This works well with some flowers, but with others, such as a hibiscus, it’s impossible to get the whole flower (or all the parts you want) in focus without stopping down the aperture to get better depth of field… which compromises the nice, smooth, blurred background you’re trying to achieve.

One of the tricks I’ve used in the past involved shooting several frames, each with a different part of the flower in focus, then using Photoshop to blend them together by loading the images as separate layers and carefully brushing away the blurry parts with layer masks, creating a single, in-focus image as a result.

This can be easy or hard, depending on the conditions you’re shooting in. If there’s any kind of wind, you’re chasing the flower around, trying to get it composed the way you want it. (This of course assumes you’re unable to clip the flower and take it inside—a great solution in your backyard, but botanical gardens tend to frown on that sort of thing.)

What this means in Photoshop is you need to align the layers exactly before blending them, which can be time consuming and frustrating, and may even require using Free Transform to bend parts of the flower into submission.

Enter Photoshop CS4 with the new and improved Auto-Align Layers and Auto-Blend Layers features. I’d heard a lot of hype around these new features and decided to take a little time to try them out. The results exceeded my expectations.

Here’s how you do it:

Shoot several frames, manually focusing on different parts of the flower. Use a tripod if you can to maximize your chances of getting the best results. Auto-Blend Layers does a good job, but my policy is to do what I can to help out the software whenever possible.

Load the images in Photoshop as separate layers. (If you’re using Lightroom 2, it has a convenient option to Open as Layers in Photoshop).

Select all the layers by clicking on the first one, then shift-clicking on the last one.

Go to the Edit menu and select Auto-Align Layers. When the dialog comes up, just leave it on Auto Projection setting, and click OK.

After it’s done, go to the Edit menu again and select Auto-Blend Layers. When that dialog comes up, select the Stack Images setting for the Blend Method and let ‘er rip.

That’s it! The results I got were amazing, and definitely worth the price of admission. I didn’t have to tweak the masks Photoshop created at all.

I’d be interested in hearing about your results with the new features. Feel free to leave me comments about how your images turned out using this method.

Aloha…

Blended Hibiscus

Yellow Hibiscus 1 of 2

One of the challenges in getting a good macro shot of a flower like a hibiscus is achieving enough depth of field to get the whole flower in focus while still getting as much bokeh as possible.

I decided to try experimenting with the new “Auto Align Layers” and “Auto Blend Layers” in Photoshop CS4 with multiple shots, manually focusing on different parts of the flower, loading all the photos as layers, then combining them to create a single photograph with the flower in focus.

The first one above is a blend of three shots, just using the default settings for the two functions.

Yellow Hibiscus blended

This second one is a blend of four shots, again using the default settings. I used a Curves adjustment layer in both shots afterwards for tonal correction and contrast. Both of these were made using a Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 wide open.

I’d say it worked pretty well.

Aloha…

Evolving

I was brought up old school in photography. You take the picture, but you make the photograph. It starts in the camera by using every ounce of skill you can muster to get the very best shot you can from an exposure and composition standpoint, so that you do only the work required in post to realize the essence of what you saw and make it worthy to print. I’ve developed a ton of Photoshop skill over the last decade, but until now, I’ve only been using it to make reality pop in my photographs.

Not that there’s anything wrong with this philosophy. I’m still a staunch believer that you should start with the most excellent photo you can, but with all the technology available to us today, I’ve recently come to believe we’re short changing ourselves as artists if we limit ourselves to reproducing reality as we saw it. This may have been fine when all we had at our disposal was some emulsion, a few chemicals and a darkroom, but today the possibilities are limitless. I need more.

Fish Pond, Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii, original shotOver the years, I’ve experimented with photo illustration using images in my repository that I haven’t been able to find uses for. Not much of that work ever saw the light of day, but it allowed me to play, learn sides of Photoshop I never would have otherwise and get my creative juices flowing when I felt blocked.

“Fish Pond” is my most recent work. I starts with a photo I took in Lahaina, and includes a series of different blend modes, some lab color, a lot of masking and a little brush work. We recently made a canvas print that’s being used as part of the interior design in a rental condo unit we own here in Kihei.

Doing this takes a lot of work and more hours in front of the screen than I’m used to spending on my straight photography, but it’s immensely rewarding and is changing the way I shoot, and what I shoot. Tell me what you think.

Widgit, Kihei, Maui, Hawaii.

A Room With A View

ExcaliburI don’t come to Vegas often. In fact, I think I’ve been here maybe three times in my whole life, and one of those was an hour-long layover on the way to somewhere else.

I was here for Photoshop World in 2005, and I’m here for the same reason again. I’ve been keeping up, but with all the Macromedia stuff that gets continuously infused into the Suite, I thought it might be time to make another appearance.

I’m not a gambler, so the place doesn’t really hold any charm for me from that standpoint, but it’s good to get off the rock once in a while, and there aren’t many cities in the world where you can see parts of other cities right outside your hotel room window.

Aloha…

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